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The
village of Fontaine de Vaucluse is squeezed into
the sharp end of a narrow valley and takes its name from
the beautiful and mysterious spring feeding the river Sorgue.
This
spring comes from deep underground - nobody knows how deep.
In
the 50s, Jacques Yves Cousteau came with a submersible to
explore the depths but did not find the bottom. Since then
a probe has made it to a sandy bed at a depth of 308 metres
(1010 ft) but the spring itself comes from somewhere even
deeper.
It is
said that all the rainwater from the Luberon and other surrounding
mountains comes out of this one source, making a catchment
area of 1100 square km (425 sq. miles).
For
most of the year all you can see is a deep blue pool of
water at the bottom of towering cliffs. But during spring
or very heavy rainfall it lives up to its name, with water
gushing out at 200m3 (52,000 gallons) every second - this
is one of the largest springs in the world.
This
extraordinary phenomenon forms the crystal-clear Sorgue
river, which soon turns a startling emerald, and it's this
vivid hue that dominates the town of Fontaine de Vaucluse.
The
spring and the beautiful Sorgue river have made the Fontaine
de Vaucluse a tourist trap, and souvenir stalls line the
walk up to the source (although it must be said that if
you are after souvenirs, they are quite good). Go early
morning, late afternoon, or simply out of season if you
want to avoid the crowds.
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| Looking
into the heart of Fontaine de Vaucluse - the bridge
and roundabout with its cluster of restaurants. |
Fontaine
de Vaucluse attractions
Fontaine
de Vaucluse boasts several attractions, so though you may
miss the tranquility of a sleepy village you are sure to
find something of interest here, and certainly some of the
region's more unusual, if a little tacky, souvenirs.
There
is also a wide choice of restaurants, from snack bars to
five-course Provencal cuisine.
Le
Monde Souterrain de Norbert Casteret
(The Underground World of Norbert Casteret)
Details
the obsession with exploring the source of the Fontaine
de Vaucluse from the earliest 1878 descent to the most recent
by robot submarine, as well as speleology and caving.
Tel:
04 90 20 34 13
Musee
d'histoire 1939-45
(History museum 1939-45)
A modern and often recommended museum with interactive exhibits
and recreated scenes of life in war-time France.
Aqueduc
de Galas
(Galas aquaduct)
Built in 1857 and still in use, at 143m long it spans the
River Sorgue across 13 arches.
Moulin
a Papier Vallis Clausa
(Vallis
Clausa paper mill)
A 14th
century paper mill that harnessed the river's power to make
paper and still does so today. This is all that remains
of the paper industry that sprang up here and once maintained
7 different mills on the river. The Moulin also has a shop
selling lots of paper products, from fancy stationery to
lampshades.
Tel: 04 90 20 34 14
The
Bishop of Cavaillon's ruined castle
The
remains of this 14th century castle are perched on a rocky
outcrop towering high above the village. The Bishop of Cavaillon's
castle was built on the site of a 7th Century settlement
- you can walk up there for a bird's eye view of Fontaine
de Vaucluse.
The
Church of St. Veran
An 10th century example of Romanesque architecture is built
atop a pagan temple and holds the tomb of Saint Veran, who
legend has it, chased away the dragon that
lived in the fountain's cave.
Petrarch
Museum and Monument
A rich
collection of engravings and books on Petrarch, in the house
where he lived.
Tel: 04 90 20 37 20
Ecomusee du santon et traditions provencales Provence
has a strong tradition of 'santons' - Christmas crib figurines
- and this museum contains one of the largest collections,
with 2000 figurines and 60 'creches'.
Tel:
04 90 20 20 83
Website:
http://www.musee-du-santon.org/
Cristallerie
des Papes
Local craftsmen making mouth-blown crystal using ancient
techniques. Also a shop selling their produce - lamps, vases
and ornaments.
Tel:
04 90 20 32 52
| And
don't forget the tourist shops - there are plenty in
Fontaine de Vaucluse. Although I rather like the miniatures
they do... |
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Places
to eat
Fontaine de Vaucluse has plenty of cafes and restaurants
of varying quality and price.
* * *
Parking
Car parks are available straight over the roundabout in
the centre of town (immediately after crossing the bridge).
* * *
The
Fontaine de Vaucluse and Petrarch
Inspired by the beauty of the valley, the medieval Italian
poet Petrarch made this town his home. He's best known for
his poems addressed to 'Laura'; a woman for whom he had
a lasting and passionate, yet unrequited love. She is never
formally identified, though it's suspected she was Laura
de Noves, beautiful young wife of Hugues de Sade; ancestor
of the Marquis de Sade.
Petrarch
was no idle romantic though, and on 26th April 1336, he
climbed to the top of Mont Ventoux, at a time when to climb
a mountain simply for the experience itself was unheard
of. Thus April 26th has become known as the birth of alpinism
and Petrarch its father.
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| Away
from the tourism, Fontaine de Vaucluse is still a hauntingly
beautiful place, one that has inspired poets from Petrarch
to today. |
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