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Menerbes
is best approached from the north, when it emerges from
the sea of cherry orchards and vineyards, like a ship at
anchor, the outline of its deck picked out by blocks of
ancient buildings, churches and citadels.
Menerbes
has survived centuries of strife and Peter Mayle remarkably
well. When Mayle wrote A Year in Provence here it
brought the coachloads to photograph every square inch of
the village. But now Menerbes has returned to what it was
- a beautiful, quiet medieval village, exquisitely poised
over the Luberon valley.
At
one end of Menerbes is the Citadelle, a miniature fortress
of the 16th century, and at the other end are the cemetery
and the chateau du Castellet, where the expressionist painter
Nicolas de Stael lived.
In
between is a walk along the top of Menerbes, through paths
and alleys, the Place de la Mairie, and the many example
of 16th and 17th century architecture, till you get to the
church and cemetery, where all journeys end.
All
along the way the views over the steeply pitched sides are
memorable, whether to the south and the Luberon mountain,
or northward over the plain to the Monts de Vaucluse and
the white-tipped Mont Ventoux.
This
is the upper, less-visited level of Menerbes. Halfway up
are the shops and restaurants.
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'Downtown'
Menerbes
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Menerbes
restaurants
There
are currently 4 restaurants in Menerbes, you can read about
them by clicking below:
Clementine
Le Galoubet
La Rabasse
Veranda
There is also a small grocery store, a butcher and
two bakers, pharmacy and doctor's surgery, as well as a
café, the Café du Progrès, which has
an extension - some tables and chairs set out next to Clementine's
restaurant with wonderful views to the north.
In
the Place de l'Horloge at the top of Menerbes is the Maison
de la truffe et du vin (House of truffles and
wine) in a beautifully restored, grand village house. There
you can find out all about the truffles and wines of the
region, as well as taking wine appreciation courses in the
summer.
Just
outside Menerbes, on the road to Cavaillon, is the Musee
du Tire-bouchon (Corkscrew museum), with over 1,000
corkscrews to see, if you're into that sort of thing. It
is also a hi-tech winery - Domaine de la Citadelle - owned
by the mayor of Menerbes, and has quite a good gift-shop
full of wine paraphernalia.
Menerbes
history
Walking
around Menerbes, you don't get a sense of the carnage of
the wars of religion but in the 16th century Menerbes was
known nationwide. It withstood a force of 12,000 Catholic
troops for 14 months. Much of the action focused on the
chateau du Castellet, at the western end of Menerbes. In
the end the villagers ran out of water, because they had
too many fires to put out, but they emerged with honour
intact.
The
Castellet is set below the upper part of Menerbes, under
the cemetery, which must be one of the best placed cemeteries
in the country, with lovely views on three sides. The cemetery
is locked but you can ask for the key at the Mairie.
There
is then a charming walk to the Place de la Mairie, past
a grand house or two, and beyond the Place de la Mairie
you carry on towards the Citadelle, where the road ends.
This fine and sturdy citadel is anchored into the rock and
is one of the keynotes in the distinctive look of Menerbes.
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Cemetery
at the top of Menerbes. A good place to end.
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Menerbes
artists
Menerbes has long attracted artists. Nicolas de Stael
lived here, and Picasso brought his mistress Dora Maar a
house near the top of the village. The poet Clovis Hugues
is remembered in a street name, and there are many unknown
writers and artists toiling away amid the same stones, views,
and light that inspired the greats. And Peter
Mayle.
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