Murs

Murs is off the beaten track, a very well preserved and unspoilt Provencal village.

It is said that the painters chose Gordes and Roussillon, the writers chose Lourmarin, and the wise chose Murs, and have kept quiet about it.

Why that should be said I do not know, unless the wise prefer somewhere quieter and on a smaller scale than the other three. Murs is a pretty village, not really perched but riding the plateau, amid fields rather than vineyards.

It is dominated by its castle which cannot be visited as it is in private hands. The village square, beautifully calm, is home to the 12th century church and a good view over the rooftops.

Murs had one famous inhabitant, Louis de Balbes de Berton de Crillon, known for short as ‘brave Crillon’. He was known for his moral rectitude and courage, and served several kings of France as a fighting captain, most notably Henri IV. His name is still remembered in the only restaurant in Murs, the Crillon, and in a tiny village not far away on the north side of the Mont Ventoux, Crillon-le-Brave. The house where he was born is now a mini-museum for the archaeology of Murs, with mysterious opening hours.

There is a small food store ('alimentation') in Murs and the Crillon restaurant serves decent fare.