Perhaps the best wine of the Dentelles de Montmirail is made in Gigondas, a tiny village with a global renown. There is a great resource of tasting of this wine in the village, it is the cave de vin that promotes local producers. Not only can you taste and buy all of the wines they produce, you can also choose from different years. A brilliant initiative.

Gigondas is small and beautiful, rising up from the vineyards against the Dentelles behind. Fittingly its name comes from the Latin ‘jocunditas’, meaning ‘joy’, which tells us that the wine was good even in Roman times.

The village is made up of cafes, restaurants and caves de degustation (where you can taste and buy the wine). It is dominated by the 17th century church of Sainte Catherine, and next to it the remains of the feudal castle whose terraces host an exhibition of contemporary sculpture. Both offer terrific views to the Cevennes range.

Just outside the village, the chapel of Saint-Cosme et Saint-Damien is partly Romanesque and has a sturdy beauty, particularly in the golden light of sundown, and quite a view of the peaks of the Dentelles de Montmirail.

There are three marked hikes from the village into the Dentelles de Montmirail, taking in the flora and fauna, as well as historical curiosities like the Saracen tower.