Wine tasting in the Luberon

Every winery in the Luberon will have as a minimum the ability to taste and buy wine. The very smallest producers will not have a tasting room, that will happen maybe in the barn, maybe in the kitchen, and it may be that nobody is around when you come calling because they are all working in the vines.

But mostly a vineyard will have facilities to receive visitors and serve their wines in a welcoming environment. You can usually taste wine for free, although some places do charge a small fee so they are not taken advantage of. There is no requirement to buy any wine after a tasting, but perhaps if an employee has spent time telling you about Luberon wine or their methods, it would be nice to at least buy a bottle.

Guided vineyard tours

Some Luberon wineries also offer a guided tour - this will typically involve a tour of the vineyard, an explanation of how they make their wine and maybe the story of Luberon wine, culminating in a wine-tasting session. These guided winery tours are for a fee and have to be booked in advance direct with the winery. The wine tasting session is more comprehensive and instructive than the regular walk-in wine tasting, so if you are into your wine, a tour may be the best option.

Make your own wine tasting tour...

One way to taste Luberon wine is simply to drive around the country roads and stop where you see a sign for a vineyard. If the sign says 'Dégustation' that means they would like you to come and taste their wine. Even if it doesn't say that, you can drive in and ask. You will not go far in the Luberon without passing a vineyard where you can buy wine direct from its maker.

...or follow my tips

If you prefer a more ordered or time-efficient way to explore the Luberon's wines and not miss anything, below are my recommendations of the best Luberon vineyards to visit.

I am not going to pretend to have the most refined palate and tell you about the hints of blackberry or importance of terroir, there are other sites and blogs for that. All the wineries I recommend make good wine (or even excellent wine, depending on your baseline) that will be a pleasure to taste or buy. But they also provide something to the visitor that goes beyond wine, which can be anything from a warm human connection to museum-quality art.

These are the Luberon vineyards I would recommend fitting in to your wine-tasting/buying day-trip. They are split into North and South Luberon for ease of navigation and planning, it will take about 30 minutes to get over or round the Luberon mountain that separates them.

 

 

Recommended North Luberon Vineyards

Chateau de Mille, Apt

Chateau de Mille dates back to the 13th century, making it the oldest winery in the Luberon. It even used to be the summer residence of the Popes when they were based in Avignon, so the place is deeply impregnated with history. The chateau is now owned by a French-American couple who have put in major investment, both on the chateau itself, and to get the wine back to its glory days. Chateau de Mille is now a state-of-the-art winery, and its output is all organic. On a tour you can explore the remarkable architectural features of what is a perfectly preserved chateau.

Chateau de Mille
Route de Bonnieux, 84400 Apt

Domaine Ruffinato, Menerbes

This one is easy to miss, tucked away at the foot of Menerbes, with a discreet sign on the road. There is no tasting room, and unless recently added, no card payment. You feel like you have arrived at someone's family home rather than a winery, and this place is both. The wine-maker Christian Ruffinato combines wine-making with being mayor of the village, no easy task as both are normally full-time jobs. There are two wines available and I would recommend the more expensive L'Infante at about 20 euros.

Domaine Ruffinato
680 Rte des Écoles, 84560 Menerbes

Mas des Infermieres, Menerbes

If you like to mix your wine-tasting with a hint of Hollywood, there is good news in Menerbes, where Ridley Scott has cemented his passion for the Luberon with a state-of-the-art winery, Mas des Infermieres. As well as very palatable wine, a visit takes in props from Scott's movie-directing career, in a newly built facility. It is a slick, professional operation.

Mas des Infermieres
1575 Rte du Four Neuf, 84580 Oppede

Chateau la Canorgue, Bonnieux

Another vineyard with a Ridley Scott connection, Chateau la Canorgue was the location for the movie 'A Good Year', based on the Peter Mayle book. Although you cannot visit the house itself, the setting is still magical, just outside the village of Bonnieux with gorgeous views and rich greenery. You can see why it was chosen for a film. But what about the wine? It is award-winning and it was the first organic wine in the Luberon. In fact, Chateau la Canorgue is beyond organic because they use biodynamic principles that treat the vineyard as a holistic ecosystem.

Chateau la Canorgue
850 Rte du Pont Julien D149, 84480 Bonnieux

Domaine la Citadelle, Menerbes

A winery with multiple points of interest, Domaine la Citadelle sits just outside the village of Menerbes. Apart from a state-of-the-art winery, there is a unique corkscrew museum, showcasing over 1200 corkscrews dating back to the 1600s. It's more interesting than it sounds!

On the hillside behind the winery a botanical garden has been created, with medicinal and aromatic plants and a fabulous Luberon view. The gift shop is full of wine accessories, and finally there is now a very good restaurant at Domaine la Citadelle, open for lunch only. It is called Tayac and is worth a detour on its own.

Domaine la Citadelle
601 Route de Cavaillon, 84560 Menerbes

Domaine des Peyre, Coustellet

A recent addition to the Luberon winescape, Domaine des Peyre mixes wine and art, with striking contemporary sculptures dotted around the estate. In summer they also have Jazz 'n Wine nights with live music, food trucks and of course, their own wine. They have the admirable mission statement of simply making life more beautiful, or 'rendre la vie plus belle'.

Domaine des Peyre
1620 Route d'Avignon, 84440 Robion

Domaine de la Bastidonne, Cabrieres-d'Avignon

This winery has been in the same family for 4 generations and it is that lineage that gives them the passion and enthusiasm for their work. This is a straightforward Luberon vineyard, no chateau to gaze at, just a warm welcome and well-priced wine.

Domaine de la Bastidonne
Quartier de la Bastidonne, 84220 Cabrieres-d'Avignon

 

 

Recommended South Luberon Vineyards

Chateau de Sannes, Sannes

Chateau de Sannes dates back to 1603 and is a spectacular venue for weddings and other events, with its French formal garden, windmill, spring-fed pool and dovecote. In the last 10 years the winery has been brought back to life, with all-new equipment, organic certification, and even biodynamic methods. A tour of the chateau is not included but if you have bottomless pockets you can rent the entire property.

Chateau de Sannes
1580 D37, 84240 Sannes

La Cavale, Cucuron

The founder and owner of La Cavale was once a government senator charged with boosting both the wine and tourism industries, giving birth to the notion of wine tourism. Now his winery, a very modern establishment with state-of-the-art tasting room and gift shop, invites you to spend time on the terrace enjoying a bottle with some nibbles, overlooking the vineyard. On Thursday nights in summer, the terrace is a place for live music, and a food truck provides the nourishment.

La Cavale
3017 Rte de Lourmarin, 84160 Cucuron

Chateau Saint-Pierre de Mejans, Puyvert

A carefully restored priory dating back 900 years, which in addition to organic wine-making offers rooms for the night. Amid vines, lavender and olive trees, you can feel the centuries unfurl as you taste today's vintage.

Chateau Saint-Pierre de Mejans
2 VC Jas de Puyvert, 84160 Puyvert

Chateau Fontvert, Lourmarin

A family enterprise, using organic and biodynamic principles, Fontvert consistently produces some of the best Luberon wine, especially the reds. It's right by Lourmarin, so a logical time to visit would be Friday morning when the beautiful Lourmarin market is on.

Chateau Fontvert
15 Chemin de Pierrouret, 84160 Lourmarin

Chateau la Verrerie, Puget

This is one of the domaines that was putting Luberon wines on the map in the 90s. Today the wine is organic, and the quality is still there, the reds winning international awards. Tastings are always a pleasure and in such a beautiful setting.

Chateau la Verrerie
1810 Rte du Luberon, 84360 Puget

Chateau Constantin, Lourmarin

Formally Constantin-Chevalier, now Constantin, but with the same quality. This is another winery that stood out from the others when the Luberon was on the way up in terms of quality. Wine has been made here for 500 years, and rumour has it that the story goes back further, and that the name comes from the Roman emperor Constantine in the 4th century AD. A charming family now runs it, with organic certification.

Chateau Constantin
Route Jas de Puyvert, 84160 Lourmarin

Chateau Val Joanis, Pertuis

The Luberon is short on great gardens that you can visit, so Val Joanis makes this list for its garden. It is so beautiful that it has been officially recognised as a 'Remarkable Garden of France'. This is a formal garden with different terraced levels, encompassing kitchen, fruit and flower gardens. You may recognise the setting from the Meg Ryan movie 'French Kiss'. In summer they have a weekly 'Apéros de Val Jo' night with live music, wine tasting, food truck and garden visits - these are free but have to be booked ahead with Val Joanis.

Chateau Val Joanis
2404 Route de Villelaure, 84120 Pertuis

Wine cooperatives

Another way to taste and buy wine is to visit a wine cooperative or cellar, usually called a 'cave coopérative' or just 'cave'. These showcase many local wineries' output in one place. So while you don't get to experience the place the wine is made or the people who make it, this may be a good solution for those short on time.

Les Caves Du Château, Lourmarin
You will find this right under the chateau in Lourmarin, where you park.
Avenue Raoul Dautry, 84160, Lourmarin

Cave de Sylla, Apt
Representing more than 100 wine growers for more than 100 years. They also do a lunch matching local cheeses with wines.
Cave de Sylla
406 Av. de Lançon, 84400 Apt

Cave de Bonnieux, Bonnieux
This is the oldest cave in the Luberon, dating back to 1920, and has hundreds of local wines available.
Cave de Bonnieux
4290 route de la Gare, 84480 Bonnieux

Cave du Luberon, Coustellet
Another cave with more than 100 wines, and over 100 years of history. (The address says Maubec but it is in the centre of Coustellet).
Cave du Luberon
229, Route de Cavaillon, 84660 Maubec

Cave de Lumieres, Lumieres
Bringing together 80 local wine producers.
Cave de Lumieres
19, route de Joucas, 84220, Goult

Maison de la Truffe et du Vin, Menerbes
Dedicated to both wine and truffles, and with a beautiful garden overlooking the valley, where you can have a simple lunch with local wine.
Maison de la Truffe et du Vin
43 Place de l'Horloge, 84560 Ménerbes