There is more than one village market in the Luberon every day of the week. They range from a handful of stalls, like at Oppede, to the town markets at Cavaillon, and the biggest of them on Saturday mornings in Apt, with up to 300 stalls.
Market day is not just a time to buy what you need, it is also a time to observe this most French of rituals, when some of the stereotypes come alive.
Markets are as popular with locals as with tourists, and most of them are year-round, adding colour and vitality to even the most wintry village. They tend to be larger in the summer. Combining a morning at the market with lunch in a favourite restaurant is a geat way to spend a half-day.
What will you find at the markets: the best local, seasonal fruit and vegetables; meat, fish, bread, olives, tapenade, honey and conserves, herbs and spices, cheese, goat cheese, flowers, oils and wines, ready-to-eat rotisserie chickens, Provencal fabrics and housewares; clothes, the perfect straw hat or straw basket to take to the markets, and much else besides.
Markets tend to be in the morning, until lunchtime – from early until around 12-1pm.
* seasonal – approximately April-December on Sunday morning, and also June-August Wednesday evening 5 – 7.30pm
Farmers’ markets of the Luberon
Farmers’ markets, or marchés paysans, are markets where local farmers sell their own produce. So unlike other food markets, what you will find at a farmers’ market depends entirely on what is growing in Provence at that time of year. You will get fantastic produce fresh from the ground, just don’t expect peaches in April!
Velleron has a notable farmer’s market every evening at 6pm in summer, and 4.30pm on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday in winter.
The other one not to miss is Coustellet, which takes place on Sunday mornings from April to December, and also in a smaller version on Wednesday evenings in the summer. There are fewer stalls on Wednesdays but also far fewer shoppers.
Luberon farmers’ markets by day
Apt – all year
Pertuis – all year
La Tour d’Aigues – July-August
Forcalquier – all year
Pertuis – all year
Cadenet – May -November
Pierrerue – all year
Lauris – May-December
Coustellet – April-December
Saint-Martin-de-la-Brasque – April-November